Bert's Bloomers » Trees and Shrubs

Over Wintering Potted Plants

Bert — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 12:37:02 +0000

A few of the new shrubs waiting to be heeled in

Though the 2009 gardening season is quickly winding down, there is still a lot of gardening to be enjoyed.

For instance, fall has become one of my favourite times of year not because of the colours and cooler temperatures, but because of the deals to be had at the local greenhouses and nurseries!

We have one local grower that is offering all, yes, all, four inch pots of perennials for $.99! Even those regularly priced at $5.99 and $6.99!! Makes resisting the urge to squeeze more plants into an already overflowing bed very difficult. And of you have decided to renovate your perennial gardens, you can do so without spending a fortune. Check out your local growers for awesome bargains in late fall.

Trees and shrubs are also dirt cheap these days. Matter of fact, yesterday I succumbed to the lure of a great deal on several shrubs that have long been on my wish list. What is a great deal? Less than wholesale! And they were purchased from a grower not a reseller, so I know I’m getting quality plants, not the beaten up ones that they couldn’t sell during the height of the season.

Will I (we) get all these plants into the ground before freeze-up? No, especially now that my other half has decided to get in on the landscape design. So what will happen to the plants over winter? We’ll heel them in and hold them over until next spring. That will give “himself” and me time to hash out a compromise over the winter.

For new gardeners that have never attempted to heel-in plants, here’s how we do it:

Dig a trench in a protected area of your yard as wide and deep as the plants’ pots. If you have several different sized pots, put all the same sized together. Yes, you may end up digging a few trenches, but just think of the work out you’ll be getting!

Set the plant, pot and all in the trench leaving a few inches between the pots.

Backfill around the pots with soil to the top of the pot.(Do not bury the stem of the plant.)

Cover the entire trench including the tops of the pots with at least two inches of mulch.

Water them in and keep them watered until they are covered with a blanket of snow. Top up the mulch as it settles.

Next spring as them temperature begins to warm up, slowly remove the mulch.

Water regularly once the snow is gone until you are ready to plant them in beds.

Moving Along

Bert — Sun, 17 May 2009 20:08:09 +0000

Two weeks after the big move and the ginko biloba is beginning to leaf out and showing every sign of liking its new homw!

We have been spending a goodly part of this spring re-arranging the furniture so to speak. Some of our plants have outgrown their living spaces, some have decided they don’t like their neighbours any more while others just need a change of scenery.

The rose garden is in the process being dismantled and re-located to another area where, hopefully, the roses will be much happier. So far, the roses that have made the move seem to like their new home. Before the rest of the roses join them, we have to add on to the garden. That’s this weekend’s task. By next weekend, all of the roses should be moved. That’s the plan.

Our most nerve wracking move was relocating our treasured ginko biloba from the water feature to the old rose bed. Keep in mind, we would not have attempted to move the ginko if it was a larger specimen. Since it is only about 5’ – 6’ tall with a 2” – 3” trunk, we felt it was do-able. We timed the transplant for when the tree was just beginning to bud. We did not want to move it in full leaf. When a tree is in full leaf, too much of its energy has to be spent maintaining its leaves. We wanted the ginko to put its energy into producing new roots.

We began by digging out a rather large and deep planting hole in its new home. No amendments were made to the soil since the (former rose) bed has been supplemented with a top dressing of compost and manure yearly. Otherwise, we would have added composted manure to the soil used to backfill the planting hole.

Next began the delicate task of removing the ginko from its old home. Using the dripline of the ginko as a guide, we dug a trench around the tree. Then we dug down and under the tree deep enough to get a good sized root ball. The goal was to get as many feeder roots as possible. We knew we’d lose some of the taproot. By digging deeply the loss was minimal.

When the ginko was freed, we gently lifted it out. Picking it up at the base of the trunk just above the soil ball, we carried it to its new home. Then we sited it best side forward and added soil to the hole as required to raise the soil ball so the base of the ginko was at the same depth as in its previous location. After backfilling the hole, we made a “well” around the dripline, and began slowly watering in the tree filling the well in the process. The well helps confine the water to the rootball area and will be levelled out once the tree is established.

There’s A Sucker Born Every Minute!

Bert — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 18:09:56 +0000

Suckers waiting to be trimmed off a main branch

More correctly, suckers “sprout” every minute.

You may think your tree is filling out quite nicely, but on closer examination, most of the new branches are shooting straight towards the sun. Those are suckers, also referred to as water sprouts. You may even find suckers appearing on the lawn, some several feet away from the main trunk. And they are not good.

Suckers grow rapidly and are rather weak compared to the rest of the branches. You will find them on limbs, around the base of the tree or on the main trunk. Because of their tendency to grow quickly, they rob the rest of the tree of valuable nutrients, weakening the entire tree in the process. Water sprouts that are left to on the tree, put a great deal of weight and pressure on the limb it sprouted from. That weakens the entire limb, inviting cracked bark or breakage. The cracked bark is an open invitation to insects and disease, and a broken limb is a safety hazard. Therefore suckers and water sprouts must be removed while they are still small.

To remove suckers, simply cut them off with sharp pruners or a pruning saw at the base of the sucker. Try a cut as close to the main branch as possible without cutting into that branch. Keep the cut as straight and as small as possible. The larger the cut, the more inner bark is exposed. The more inner bark exposed, the easier it is for diseases and insects to attack your tree.

Removing suckers can actually stimulate the production of even more suckers or water sprouts. Then it becomes a something you will need to do two or three times a year. An application of pruning paste helps curb the appearance of new suckers.

Five Common Gardening Errors

Bert — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 10:44:29 +0000

Silver Leaf Dogwood planted correct distance from building

We’ve all seen them – shrubs that grow against a house, twisting the plant into a grotesque monster that hides windows and damages siding. Often, people only consider the mature height of a shrub or tree when the mature width should also be considered. Plant shrubs far enough away from building foundations to allow the shrub to reach its mature width without being crammed against a wall. Not only do the shrubs benefit, but you won’t have to worry about the roots of the shrub damaging drainage tiles buried underground.

Planting in too shallow a hole. Container grown shrubs should be planted so the top of the soil ball is at the same height as the ground. The soil ball should not stick up above the soil level. That exposes the roots to air causing them to dry out, which leads to a plant that struggles.

Planting too deep is just as damaging. That smothers the stem of the plant, affecting its ability to send nutrients and water to the leaves. It also increases the potential for rotting of the stem which kills the plants.

Planting the wrong plant. Plants that like some shade, protection from the wind, and moist soil will not last long in an area of full sun that is dry and windy. The same is true of planting a shrub in the shade, when its requirements are full sun and well drained soil. .Read the label at the nursery or do your homework online so you know you are selecting the right plant.

Incorrect watering. When planting, make sure you water it in well. A slow trickle of water applied for thirty minutes, is much better than a rapid soaking. By watering slowly, you give the root ball time to absorb the water. Soaking will cause the water to drain away into the subsoil and not enough will be retained by the plant to give it a good start in its new home. New plantings should be watered every day for about a week. Then you can cut back to twice a week until the plant is showing evidence of new growth.

Larch

Bert — Thu, 29 Jan 2009 15:40:17 +0000

larix decidua

This is one of our favourite trees – Larch (larix decidua). It is an oddity in the evergreen world because, it is not an evergreen. Larch is a conifer that sheds its needles in the fall, leaving branches bare except for the little cones that linger on the branches.

The needles of the Larch turn from a light green in spring, to bright green in summer to a stunning yellow-gold in the fall. In winter, the bare tree becomes a focal point in the winter garden. Overall, Larch adds interest to the home landscape all year.

Height: 15m

Width: 7m

Shape: pyramidal, horizontal branching

Cones: 1 – ½”

Growth Rate: rapid, up to 2’ per year when young

Zones: 2 – 6

Soil: moist, well drained

Light: full sun to part shade

Diseases: cankers, rust

Insects: Larch case borer, gypsy moth, woolly larch aphid

Uses: specimen plant, or windbreak when grouped

Prune: in mid summer if required

We had neighbours who were avid gardeners. They planted a larch tree in their front yard. It was a particularly beautiful specimen and thrived in its new home. Then, one summer, they sold their house. The lovely young couple who purchased the property moved into it in January of the following year. They were not gardeners. In early spring, they took the larch out. I asked them “Why?” They replied “Well, it was dead!” I was very surprised to learn that the larch had succumbed. Then a thought occurred to me. I asked if they were sure the larch was dead? They replied with “Well, yes! All of the needles had fallen off! It had to be dead!” Trying hard not to laugh, I explained the nature of the Larch tree to

Pagoda Dogwood

Bert — Mon, 19 Jan 2009 03:09:58 +0000

Young tree planted in front of plain brick wall. In time the tree will fill the space and soften the look of the wall. Note the shredded red cedar mulch that helps with acidity levels of the soil.

Close up of Pagoda Dogwood flowers

Cornus alternifolia

This is an interesting but under utilized small tree, perfect for smaller landscapes.

A native dogwood, with horizontal branching . White flowers in the spring followed in the fall by dark blue berries. Alternating light green foliage turning red in the fall.

Height 15’ – 25’

Width 1 ½ times its height

Flowers 1 ½” – 2 ½” creamy white clusters that last approximately

7 – 10 days from May until early June

Fruit ¼” berries born in July – August changing from green to red

to dark blue as the fruit matures

Location Prefers partial shade though will perform well in full sun given enough moisture and protection

Soil Likes acidic, mois,t well drained soil

Insects Scale, borers (several species), leaf miner

Diseases Powdery mildew, crown canker, blights, root rot

Uses As specimen plant or in shrub border where horizontal

lines are needed to break up vertical lines of surrounding architecture

NOTES: Must be planted in the spring. Young transplants have better success rates than older trees. Fibrous spreading root system must have acidic, moist soil

Cutleaf Sumac

Bert — Sun, 12 Oct 2008 10:15:14 +0000

More than half of my daily 40+ kilometre commute to work is spent driving along country roads, giving me the opportunity to observe nature’s continuing mood changes. Most of the land I pass is wide open farm land, but there are enough wooded areas, even a small hill or two, to keep it interesting. I have seen black clouds rolling across the fields, high winds bending and twisting the trees lining the roads. I have watched the lambs of spring playing, the summer crops growing daily, wild animals running about (testing the brakes and my reflexes) and flocks of birds flying south in autumn. Every day affords a new vista for me to take in. At this time of year, I am treated to bursts of colour provided by the wildflowers growing on the side of the road: White and purple asters, goldenrod, Queen Anne’s lace, thistles and some chickweed. Toss in wild rose hips and apples, brilliant red Virginia creeper, the golden leaves of wild grape, the rainbow of reds, yellows and oranges of sumac and the varied assortment of other trees, and the vibrant show is non-stop. The trip home is seldom long when Nature is providing such delightful entertainment.

Autumn is certainly not my favourite season, but I cannot help but be taken by the beauty of this time of year. In particular, sumac entrances me. So much so, that when we moved to this house, cutleaf sumac (Rhus typhina ‘Dissecta’) was on the list of “must have” plants.

Having spent a couple of years in our heeling-in garden, last year one sumac was moved to the shrub border. This spring, two more were planted in the same border. Already they have begun to sucker, and we are torn between wanting to control them, and wanting them to control the border. None of the suckers have been removed as yet. We have decided to wait and see what happens. If we like the look of dozens of sumac growing throughout the bed, they will stay. Until they become nuisances. Or interfere with my (most favourite) weeping false cypress (Chamaepcyparis nootkatensis ‘Pendula’)

Rhus typhina ‘Dissecta’ Cutleaf Sumac

Height: 6’

Width: 10’

Location: Full sun for best fall colour

Soil: Moist, well drained

Propagation:From softwood cuttings in summer,

From seed in fall

From suckers in winter or early spring

Male and female plants required to produce fruit

Pests: Scale

Diseases: Powdery Mildew

Leaf spot

Verticillium wilt

Uses: Well suited as specimen plant, in borders or to fill large areas quickly

Other: Can become quite invasive

Young stems are velvety

Low maintenance plant other than its invasive tendency

Clematis “Radar Love”

Bert — Sun, 20 Jul 2008 14:17:00 +0000

Confession time again. I am not a fan of Clematis. I would even go so far as to say I dislike Clematis. Intensely dislike! If you are among those gardeners who feel no garden is complete without a vine or two you are at this moment in shock no doubt. My apologies for any discomfort you may be experiencing.

The list of reasons I have not been swayed over to the Clematis side is quite extensive, but the three biggest are: They are blowsy. They are over used. The colours are boring.

However, there are two exceptions and one of them is growing in our garden. It is Clematis tangutica “Radar Love”.

This particular variety does not look like your typical Clematis. It is quite a subdued, subtle bell shaped flower in my favourite colour, yellow. In the fall the seed heads are like the usual tufts of the common varieties. (The seeds heads can be dried and used in winter arrangements by the way.)

Our vines were grown from seed in our greenhouse three years ago. The first year they languished in pots as I struggled to find a spot for them. The second year, they began their journey skyward on an arbour in the back garden, producing only a few insignificant blooms, and sparse foliage. They were rather unspectacular, but I knew enough to give them one more year to prove their worth.

This, their third year, has made the wait worthwhile! The vines have filled out beautifully and reached the eight foot mark, with no signs of stopping. “Radar” is full of flowers and buds, promising colour that will linger into fall when their distinct seed heads will provide visual and tactile interest.

I have not fussed over these vines, leaving to them to fend for themselves. In defiance of the authorities’ recommendations, “Radar” has never been pruned or mulched and was fertilized only during its first two months in the ground. Growing at the edge of a garden well supplemented with compost and manure has no doubt contributed to their success. Insects and disease have not been an issue (touch wood) so far.

Should you want to give these non-clematis looking Clematis a try, here’s what the expert Clematis growers say about Clematis tangutica:

Propagation: from fresh seed in cold frame or division in early spring or softwood cutting in spring. Layer in late winter/early spring.

Height: 15’ – 20’

Width: 6’ – 10’

Hardy: Zones 6 – 9

Flowering Period: mid summer to late fall

Exposure: full sun

Soil: fertile, well drained soil

Fertilizing: composted manure around crown of plant

Growing: provide good support and tie stems as needed to train on trellis/arbour

Pruning; cut back to 8” in spring just as buds begin to appear.

Winter Protection: mulch

Pests: whitefly, aphids and scale

Diseases: powdery mildew, rust and wilt

Trimming Flowering Shrubs

Bert — Mon, 19 May 2008 12:09:00 +0000

From the moment the first forsythia began to bud out, I knew we were in for a fabulous showing of flowering shrubs this year. Thanks to the cooler temperatures we’ve had this year, flowering periods have been extended and we are able to enjoy the show longer than we do in warmer springs. But, as they say, all good things must come to an end. Some of the flowers have already faded and branches are beginning to leaf out; a sure sign of warmer days ahead.

Once the flowers have faded from spring blooming shrubs and trees, it is the ideal time of year to trim and shape them. Don’t leave this task too long or you’ll be sacrificing blooms for next spring.

Over the years I have seen some rather interesting trimming techniques; there are the “Tender Trimmers”. Those are people that merely snip off the dead flower heads, afraid to touch any other growing part of the plant (not recommended). Then, there are the “Hackers”. They chop away at the plants willy nilly with no thought to shape or growth patterns (also not recommended). There is the “Plant Perfectionist” who will literally spend hours on one shrub (okay if you have the time, but really doesn’t make that much difference unless you’re maintaining a topiary).

Ideally, you should be able to trim and shape an average sized shrub in fifteen minutes or less. Using sharp hedge shears (can’t emphasize that enough), begin removing the dead flower heads. You’ll take a few leaves off with them, but that’s expected. Then, take a look at the inside of the shrub. Remove any deadwood by cutting it out at ground level using sharp loppers. If the centre of the plant is thick with branches, thin out the crowded growth. This allows for better air circulation within the shrub which is your first defence against plant diseases. It also encourages the shrub to sprout new flowering shoots.

Now you can move on to tricking the shrub into growing where and how you want it to, not where Mother Nature wants it to. Start by trimming the top straight across using those very sharp hedge shears of yours. If it’s growing against a wall, cut the back of the shrub so it is not touching the wall. You’ll want to trim it so the bottom of the shrub is wider than the top by several inches. Cut back, a bit at a time so you don’t take too much off, the sides and front of the shrub. Again, the bottom should be wider than the top. We do that so the bottom leaves and branches will receive as much light as the tops portions of the shrub. That helps prevent the sparse, spindly look shrubs get at the base otherwise.

On to the top. Holding the hedge shears at a thirty to forty-five degree angle, trim the edges where the sides meet the top all the way around the shrub. You are almost done. Look the shrub over and do some light touch up trimming here and there to even out the shape. Using hand pruners, remove any leafless “sticks” (a.k.a coat hangers) jutting up throughout the plant by making a flat cut just above the first set of leaves on the stick. Should that first set of leaves face the inside of the shrub, move down the satlk to the next set of leaves that face the outside of the shryb.You’ll give the shrub a well groomed look by doing that and direct the growth towards the outside of the shrub. On a personal note, it drives me to distraction when I see a shrub that hasn’t had the coat hangers removed.

Fertilize the shrub by spreading composted manure about one inch thick around the dripline of the shrub, or use a balanced, water soluble fertilizer. Add mulch to the bed and you’re done!

One final hint: Sterilize the shears, loppers and pruners in a mix of three parts water to one part bleach after trimming each shrub. If there are any diseases on the shrubs, you’ll be less likely to spread those diseases between plants by doing so.

Korean Spice Bush

Bert — Sun, 11 May 2008 17:41:00 +0000

As much as perennials, herbs and annuals combine to create the ambience in our gardens, in the spring, it is the flowering shrubs and trees that are the mood makers.

In keeping with the age of our house, mostly old fashioned flowering shrubs such as Forsythia, Mock Orange, Lilac and Bridal Wreath Spirea bring colour to our spring gardens. Over time, we have added Ninebark, Rhododendron, Weigela, and Korean Spice Bush. They all put on such a pretty show while we await the blooming of our herbaceous plants.

This week, it is the Korean Spice Bush (Viburnum x carlcephalum) that is stealing the show. Its fragrance alone is enough to make one stop in mid stride to inhale the soft, spicy scent of the pale pink to white flowers. After the flowers are done, the shrub will leaf out and provide privacy to the back garden.

Deciduous shrub

Height up to 10’

Width up to 3’

Heart shaped, dark green leaves with good autumn colour

Trumpet shaped flowers in ball like clusters

White flowers open from pink buds

Hardy in Zones 6 – 8

Prefers moist, well drained soil

Sun or part shade

Prune after flowering

Can tolerate hard pruning

Susceptible to Botrytis, powdery mildew and rust – provide good airflow in and around the shrub to reduce the possibility of disease

Aphids, mealybugs and scale enjoy this shrub. Ours have never been attacked, but encouraging wildlife to your gardens can control any infestations that may occur.